By Nick Irie
- On a level surface jack up the corner of the car you will be working on and make sure to secure the vehicle with a jackstand as a safety precaution. Please be aware that jack pucks should be used to reference the factory jacking points. We suggest putting a jack stand under a solid member that will not move as a safety precaution.
- Remove factory lugnuts with 21mm socket
- Once removed you will see a 10mm retaining bolt on the rotor that will need to be removed.
- Once removed you can clean any surface rust with a wire brush prior to installing the spacer. If you live in an area that sees snow or salt, you should apply anti seize around the hub protrusion to prevent the spacer from getting stuck due to mineral deposits and salt mixing with moisture.
- We recommend applying some blue loctite onto the factory studs prior to installing the spacer. This will help to ensure that the nuts do not come loose. If loctite is not available we recommend that the vehicle be driven for 100 miles and then wheels removed to retorque the lugnuts attaching the spacer to the OEM studs. Loctite not included.
- Once loctite is applied proceed to installing the spacer to the hub. Once the spacer is installed you can use the supplied shallow 19mm lugnuts and tighten the spacer to the factory studs.
- For the front wheels you will need a friend to hold down the brakes so you can torque the 19mm shallow lugnuts to 129ft/lbs. In the rear the parking brake will prevent the wheel from spinning so this isn't an issue.
- Now that the spacer is installed and torqued down you can install the wheel onto the spacer and torque the lugnuts to a max of 129ft/lbs.
- Repeat steps above for the other 3 corners.